I’ve started finishing up the top section of the bookcase but I still have to do the most favorite part of any woodworking project – the sanding and finishing :|. I was being sarcastic, it really is not most woodworkers favorite, although some do fancy the finishing process – most don’t like the sanding process. Perhaps waiting for the finish to dry is the least fun – or watching glue dry. (I love Jay Bates’ video’s where he is sitting on a stool eating a sandwich waiting for glue to dry.)
No, not for me (although I could use it). As previously mentioned in the bookcase #7, I’m trying something different for the back panel. The tongue and groove slats I used instead of a solid pane are kind of thin and the tongue and groove is pretty small – so I’m a little worried about someone pushing it out. To remedy this I’ve installed a couple of slats across the back to support any backwards pressure. They are supported with screws to the rails but not to the slats themselves. I’m debating if this is needed and if so, how…
rippin’ some shelves
I originally designed the bookcase piece with three shelves (see the bookcase #1) then built two thinking it would be ok. But the customer thought that the original design of three might be better so – three it is. The shelves are once again oak plywood. This, as opposed to solid wood will suit just fine as they will be stained black like most of the project. The use of plywood also reduces the risk of wood movement during seasonal changes. I used iron-on edge banding to finish up the shelves.
Using oak ply seems to be my “go to” for most projects – it’s readily available given my limited choice of material providers in my area. But it seems to be really susceptible to tear out when crosscutting. I have gotten in the habit of changing my blades to suit the cut (I hope I’m not the only woodworker who is too lazy to change blades) but still seem to get tear out. I’ve seen/read a couple of methods that seem to work – a couple of which I have used and have been successful.
- use a scoring knife to score the wood fibers on the cut line prior to the cut. I haven’t tried this method but it makes good sense – especially when using chisels and hand tools.
- make a shallow pre cut, flip the board over, then make the final through cut. This works, I have tried it.
- the final method (see photo below) is to put a piece of blue (green is fine too) painters tape on the wood at the cut line, then cut. This seems to make a pretty good cut, but the bottom still tears out a little – even with a zero clearance insert.